Chapter 6 Pilgrimage Day 4

Diary of the White Bush Clover

Day 4 (9 October) Omihachiman to Hikone

I woke up to the sound of motor boats. Nowadays no one rows a boat to catch fish, I thought. My body felt sore and it was hard to wake up. I washed my face. Looking out the window I could see morning dew covering the beautiful mountainside. With affection I bid farewell to Biwa-ko. I left the hostel, remembering to take the walking stick. I climbed further up to Chomei-ji and prayed to Kannon. Then I started down the stone steps in front of the temple. It was very steep. I noticed that each step had a round hole for the tip of a walking stick. It is like the ups and downs in life, I thought. When things are going well you do not feel you need help. But when things go wrong, you must slow down and realize that you need to draw upon the support of your inner strength.

Using the walking stick I went down more than five hundred steps. I gave the walking stick back to the woman at the shop with a contribution of 100 yen for her kindness. I said, “Thank you. I learned a wonderful lesson from this walking stick.” The bus came and I started to get on but the woman came up to me carrying a package of chopsticks. She said, “These special hashi are to wish you long life. Please use them.” Once more I thanked her. This woman did not want to sell the chopsticks and I did not want to buy them because they were an expression of gratitude between us. I felt very warm inside my heart.

At the end of the bus ride I got off and walked again. There was little traffic in this area because it was far away from the busy road. It looked like an old road. I asked people and they said, yes, it was. The houses were built far apart and the village was quiet. The grass was already withered. I could hear the sound of insects even in the afternoon. Then I walked again. My leg was in better condition now because it had warmed up from the morning’s walk. I had to reach Hikone by evening. It was the longest distance I walked on this journey. I walked, eating sweets. I looked down at my feet and not at the distance I had to go.

Later I walked past a hill. I could see golden rice fields all around and people busily working in the fields with machines. Many years ago rice was harvested by hand. Now the machines were convenient but very expensive. The farmers were working hard and may have seen me only as a hiker with a rucksack. I felt sorry because I was not working hard like them. However in my own way I was doing hard work because I was on a pilgrimage.

A little girl sat on the side of the road. She looked bored. Maybe she was waiting until her parents finished working. An old woman and a girl were working a small area by hand. The woman was so old but she was doing this work usually done by young people. If only I had time I would help them. I went over and spoke to the old woman. She told me, “My son died in the war but the field is still here so I have to reap the rice.”

 “I am walking to pray for the people who died in the war,” I said, “so please tell me your son’s name and I will pray for him tonight at the temple where I will be staying.” She gave me his name and thanked me. It was past noon so I had to hurry. This was the first and the last time I would meet this old woman. I said to her, “Please take care and live long.” After a few minutes I looked back and saw the old woman and the girl waving.

banshu ya

robā no tenaru

inaho kana

End of autumn –

old woman carrying in her arms

sheafs of cut rice.

I had to hurry to Hikone but I got lost because I did not look at the map. There were no shops but I found a few people who were buying fruit and vegetables in front of a farmer’s house. I bought three bananas and asked them how to find the road to Hikone. It was twenty kilometers to Hikone and it was already 2 o’clock. I wondered if I could make it before dark and I wondered how long I could walk.

Eventually I found the railroad track and a train station. I wondered if it was Hikone but no, it was one station before. Until I found the train line I had great energy but when I realized I had to walk more I felt weak. I walked slowly. The sun was setting. There was no bus. I had to go by foot. I walked beside that railroad track for four kilometers.

Finally I arrived at Hikone but I had to walk all the way through the town to the temple. I wanted to cry. I called ahead to say I would arrive that night. The priest at Choei-ji said, “Oh, you’re really coming?” He was wondering if I would come or not.

An hour later I reached the temple at last. I could not speak but only said to Buddha, “I have arrived.” I ate supper and gave thanks for it. I really enjoyed taking a bath. Today’s trip was long and I had lost my way. That day was the longest and fullest day of my entire trip. I felt so thankful for the day’s events and a comfortable end to the day.

I got a call from my family. Their voices were very kind. My daughter said, “Take it easy, you can come back anytime.”

 “It is all right, I am going on,” I replied.

Afterwards I talked about my journey with the priest and his wife. After spending a few days by myself I missed people very much. I felt as if I had been walking in the desert so when I met one person I felt happy.